My first visit to Kohinoor was nearly a year ago, and I
was shocked to find it closed on my second. But Kohinoor
wasn't gone for long and reopened across the street. It
underwent a considerable facelift, from a dimly lit venue
to a bright space with an ocean-blue ceiling and ethnic
décor topped with a subtle Chinese influence. As much
as Kohinoor claimed to be an Indian restaurant, its best
efforts rested in the much understated Nepali selection
on the menu, with items like Sukuti Sadenko (30RMB),
a robust appetizer featuring salty shredded yak marinated
with chilies and lemon juice. Kohinoor also won
points for making a curd-like yogurt that added to the
richness of most dishes. However, the Indian side of
the menu was quite disappointing, as dishes such as
Chana Masala (25RMB), Dal Makhani (20RMB) and
Dal Fry (20RMB) turned out to be uninspiring, due to
the repetitive use of chili powder, ground cumin and garam
masala. That prompted us to stick with the limited
Nepali selection on our next visit, and the Thalis (Nepali
40RMB, Vegetarian 35RMB) that came with generous
refills.
2/F, 23, Lu Jing Lu, Yuexiu District (6122 1808) 越秀区簏景路23号2楼
Daily: 9 a.m. – 1 a.m. Payment: cash only
Price: 50RMB pp