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24 hours in . . . Da Qi Tou
that's PRD Feb 4, 2008 Ginger View: 682

A ancient site that transports you back in time.

First-time travelers to Da Qi Tou invariably return with tales of historical awe: famous ocean generals, quaint villages and grand homes filled with well-preserved artifacts. And it's true, all this is here and waiting. But for those who like to mix a 
little history with a holiday jaunt, Da Qi Tou in Sanshui Foshan could also be a superb weekend break.
"It's one of the best-preserved Qing Dynasty constructions in southern China," said Senior Zheng, a lifelong resident of the village, who added that it was also home to Guangdong's marine general Zheng Zhao Zhong, who used to be Empress Dowager Cixi's beloved official. On Zheng's sixtieth birthday, Empress Dowager Cixi even granted a stone, carved in the "Shou" characters, in honor of the man, which can still be found in the village today.
Being an illiterate military official, Zhao planned the layout of the area as a homage to the art of writing. A dark green pool represents an "ink slab". The Wen Tower at the village entrance is the "writing brush". Two stones nearby represent "inkstones" and the long lush lawn represents "paper". However, you might not recognize the 
symbols today, which has been expanded to 52,000sq meters as more generations added to the project.
Drainage is also a key word here. On the narrow lanes between the houses, I spotted drainage holes, underneath which is a huge and complicated underground drainage system. Rain first gathers on the roof (called sky wells) then goes to ground via pipes into underground drainage pools. The entire water-flow process was a vital sign of community integrity.
The houses, too, are wonderful. Through a slit on one closed door, I was surprised to see several pieces of vinyl disk and Mao Ze Dong Quotations. A real combination of history and nostalgia!
But if you really want to appreciate the entire construction, it's best to see it from the rooftops, providing you are brave enough to climb the narrow stairs. The view is magnificent, with rows of ancient dark tiles still firm and fixed into place today.
Fifteen years ago, the villagers moved out of this bygone construction to find a more modern existence. The lanes were too narrow, the tap water installation proved to be unrealistic, and the houses were cold at night. A new housing complex was built nearby, where the villagers live today. Fortunately, the people here still maintain an easy lifestyle. Under the shades, they play chess and poker, smile at the passing crowds, and exchanges stories. No one would ever think of tearing down this old construction since, in the words of Senior Zheng, "it has become our one and only valuable asset." 

Where to eat:
Da Qi Tou Restaurant:
Tel: 0757-8768 6684
It's the sole restaurant in that area and operated by a local couple. Vegetables are freshly grown in the backyard and the chickens raised by owner. Local taste, simple decoration, and local prices at around 20RMB per person.

What to buy:
Local products of dry vegetables, dry taro leaves and herbs are sold at the village entrance. All items are home-made and at a low price.

How to get there:
From Guangzhou: Take the bus from Guangdong Province Bus Terminal to Sanshui (50 mins). Then transfer to Da Qi Tou, Le Ping. The bus will stop right in front of the village. Entrance fee: 5RMB.
From Shenzhen: Take the bus from Shenzhen Bus Ternimal to Sanshui. Then transfer the bus to Da Qi Tou, Le Ping.

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